I guess not too long ago, Tirana, Albania was a pretty drab place. But a new mayor, who happened to be an artist, felt things should be changed. He commissioned a lot of student artists to paint some of the buildings in town. The colors are random and a little crazy on some of the buildings. These are pictures just taken from our balcony to give you an idea of how the color scheme is working out.

This is a picture from our balcony which shows how many of the buildings in town were constructed. These buildings were built when the communists were in control of Albania. The buildings were actually built by the people who are living in them. The brick work is pretty random as you can see.  When the communists were kicked out, a law was passed that anyone living in an apartment they had built would be considered the owners and the apartment was theirs. Thereafter, each building had to maintain its own structure, stairwells, windows, and plumbing etc. So now some buildings are maintained better than others. Where we live, the building has been kept up. It also wasn't built when the communists were in control. Looking at the construction under the communists, I have a feeling this place would come down like a house of cards if we had a good earthquake.

This is Kamryn's investigator! Just before we came to Albania, Kamryn met Aulona when she was opening a bank account in Oceanside. She was the first Albanian we have ever met. We discovered her parents live just 2 blocks from where we would live in Tirana. Wednesday, her parents came to our English class, and her mother stayed for the Institute Book of Mormon class that followed.  All the members of the class were unified in befriending her and answering her questions. With the help of a translator, I shared the miracle of our meeting and my testimony of the Book of Mormon. She left with her own copy. She returned Thursday night.

As many of you know, Mom and I are living on the 7th floor of this apartment building. Because in Europe they count the 1st ground floor as zero, we're actually 8 floors up. Mom wanted me to be certain that you all know she is climbing the stairs everyday and does not ride the elevator. I use the elevator as the spirit dictates.  Which means, if I'm really tired after a long day, I ride the elevator, or if I have a lot of groceries to bring up I ride the elevator. 

The power has gone off only once while I was using the elevator and that happened just as I reached our apartment floor. The elevator stopped and it got real dark in this tiny elevator, but then the door opened within a couple of seconds as power was restored. It was a close call, but I've emotionally recovered from the ordeal. Pictures show Mom climbing and looking down 8 stories of stairs. Love to all, Dad

Sunday, October 26th we awoke early to travel to Durres to speak in their Sacrament meeting. Took a public bus to the train station and there at 7:30 AM we caught the express bus to Durres. In Durres we picked up another bus which took us to the chapel. We both spoke in the Sacrament meeting on the Plan of Salvation. Mom and I both used interpreters, but Mom did speak in Shqip a couple of times as she quoted scripture and bore her testimony. I just did my testimony in Shqip at the end of my talk.

So we spent a couple of hours in Durres and a couple of hours on buses before getting back to Tirana for an evening baptismal service. We continue to love the work and these wonderful people. We will be speaking in Elbason next month. The church is building the 2nd chapel in Albania in Elbason. It should be finished by January.














Inside of Durres chapel.














On the way home we took a "vergon". That's a van just bigger than a mini-van. This one had 15 seats and 17 passengers for the trip back to Tirana. It was pretty crowded and Mom and I had seats. Mom with Durres primary children.
Mom and I with the Durres seminary students just after their Sunday School class.

Well the Halloween "Festa" was a great success. We had just over 60 young adults in attendance. I think everyone had a good time. We ate 20 pizzas and Mom's homemade brownies. Everyone loved the brownies.









Sonja and Brisi Saraqi. Sonya at 26 is a doctor and Brisi is still in school.















Mom forced me to wear the tie. She bought it just before the dance.

Who said a mission was all work and no play?

Our dancing DJs, Eron, on left and Mikail
Mom line dancing with Ledianna on left and Elsa on right.
Handing out the "made from scratch" brownies.
Part of the decoration committee: Ela, Alma and Ledianna, trying to be scary.

"Be it ever so humble, there is no place like home." Mom and I both feel that way about Tirana, Albania. Returning home was great. The weather was much warmer and we had lots to do, English lessons Friday night and then up early Saturday to help with decorations and preparations for the Halloween Festa (that's "party" in Shqip).

I will miss the cheeseburger and fries, but there is a power in this work that can't be described. Both Mom and I felt an urgency to get back to Tirana and continue our mission with the most loving people we have ever met.

We spent nearly 2 days in one of the most beautiful cities of the world, Vienna, Austria. Mom and I had Institute Outreach training during the day (Thursday) but were able to walk about the city during the two evenings we were there.

That's Mom in the old part of town and if you look closely, there is a Burger King and McDonald's signs. Yes, Dad had a double cheese burger and fries before leaving Vienna. That's the first hamburger and fries in a month. I think I may be loosing weight. The other picture is of the Hofsburg palace. The Austrian-Hungary Empire ruled much of Europe before World War I. The picture does not do justice to the very impressive palace.



The above photo is of the interior of the Institute Outreach Center in Vienna. On the left is Elder Boam, responsible for Outreach in Europe, Elder Meng, responsible for fiances for Outreach and Elder Gill who runs the Vienna Center.

The building on the right is the Outreach Center in Vienna. Its a great location and a wonderful building.


This is a close up view of the steeple of St Stephen's Cathedral in downtown Vienna.Evening view of the Opera house, Vienna, Austria.
Hey, Buck, just so you didn't think we were confused about where we were, I found this sign hanging in the Vienna airport. We did not see any kangaroos so I guess we weren't in Australia.

When I was teaching an English class about the verb "to be," I decided to close the class with the song "I am a Child of God."  The class is primarily members of other faiths, but I felt this was such a universal theme everyone would appreciate its sweet message.  I was hoping someone in the audience was a member of the Church and could sing a long with me, but I found out that wasn't the case.  As you know, I don't have a singing voice--especially a solo singing voice. I explained this to the class, which heightened their attention. I proceeded to sing a solo; and when I finished, they all clapped enthusiastically--probably because they were so happy it was over!  After class, this young 9-year old girl came up to me and asked if she could sing me a song.  I assumed it was going to be something like "Row, row, row your boat."  We sat down together and she began to sing with a lovely voice a familiar tune.  Because it was in Shqip (Albanian), it took several bars before I recognized the song.  She was singing "I am a Child of God" to me in her language.  I can't explain what that did to my heart! This mission provides us with just such daily joy!

These are pictures of the country between Tirana and Durres. During the 50 years the Communists ruled Albania they built thousands (I'm not exaggerating) of small pill boxes. I think they felt they would be invaded by the West at any moment.  These pictures show two of the dozen or so I saw on the trip back to Tirana from Durres. Also note in the third picture the Mosque up on the hill. Albania is 70% Muslim.

Yesterday Mom and I took the bus to Durres. We needed to meet with the Muellers to discuss Seminary and also see where the Church is because this Sunday Mom and I will be speaking there. Because the bus system is such an adventure, I thought a dry-run was worth the trip. 

Above and below is the only chapel in Albania. Located in Durres just outside of town. 
Chapel in Durres was built before this nice road was put in. Originally this road was full of ruts and was more a river than road when it rained in the winter. Yes, those are two donkey pulled carts just to the left of Mom and Sister Mueller.

This is Durres looking north from the bay. And that is the Adriatic Sea. I did touch it and it felt decently warm. Durres has probably been inhabited for 3,000 years. It is first mentioned in 627 B.C. when settlers from the Greek Island of Corfu colonized it.  In the 1st or 2nd Century A.D., the Romans built a large amphitheatre here. We'll go there on some future P-day.  For you history buffs, very near here Julius Caesar fought an indecisive battle during the Roman Civil War against Pompey in 48 B.C.

Today, Monday October 20, 2008 was our "Preparation Day" commonly called "P" day. I finished painting our apartment. The walls were pretty dirty and needed a lot of help. It was best to paint most of them. My back is now killing me, but I think I've convinced Mom that this painter has now retired for the rest of my mission.

In the afternoon we went for a long walk up to Mother Teresa Square. Many people do not know this but Mother Teresa was Albanian. The square is in pretty bad shape. There is a fountain in the middle which has a lot of graffiti on it and no water.



Last Saturday we had Teacher training for the teachers in the Church. The photo with the 5 people in the front of the class are roll playing. Man in orange shirt is President Sparti Kashari. He is Branch President of the 2nd Tirana Branch. Next to him in light blue is his fiance Ela. To the right is Sister Kashari, Sparti's mother, and on the right is Elder Muller from Duress.

I've also attached a photo of the Albanian flag which was hanging from one of the newer buildings in Tirana today. I love the color red and this flag is pretty cool. It depicts a double headed eagle in black.

Yesterday after the District Meeting, we again fed the missionaries. We found a place around the corner which sold taco shells. Got some taco seasoning, chips, some marginal salsa and what we thought was hamburger. The hamburger was at a meat market and it was in paddies, but it was not ground beef. Instead it turned out when we opened the packaging which said "hamburger" it really was ham.  We cooked it any way and with the seasoning the tacos were just passable.  The missionaries loved it. We called the meal Fiesta Friday. Around the table, left to right: Elder Shupe, Elder Monson, Elder Humphreys, Elder Whittier, Elder Lindsey, Elder Kushland, and Elder Owens.

Yesterday afternoon while I was at the Church, I heard this terrible screeching, like metal against asphlat. I looked out the second floor window and there was this older man pulling an oven down the street. No wheels, just the oven dragging along the road. It was heavy enough that after 5 to 7 feet he'd have to stop and take a rest. I guess you could call this "meals without wheels."
Here is a better picture of Mom teaching her class. Its alway about this full. Young man that black board with Mom is Eddie. He speaks English very well and acts as Mom's interpreter. Many in the class are not members of the Church, but come to learn English.  As you can see, most are college aged students. They really want to learn. Learning English will help them get better jobs. Though one of the problems here in Albania is that there is not much of a differential in the pay scale. As an example: a waiter will make $200/month while a doctor will make only $300/month. I had over 20 students in my class last night. That's the largest its been so far. 

Three of the young sisters from the Church came by the apartment this evening for their English lesson. Two of them are actually studying for the TOEFL examination in hopes of going to a US university. They sang happy birthday in both Shqip and English and brought along a wonderfully delicious cake.  It is so easy to love these people.

This quote was found by Mom and I as we were cleaning the apartment this past week. It now hangs on the living room wall. We both realize that being apart from our family is hard on both ends. Grandparents really love and miss their children and grandchildren. Children and grandchildren also miss Grammy and GP (aka Papa).  But there is something more important going on here.  To be of service to mankind is very important. It is our heritage to do all that we can to allow the Gospel of Jesus Christ to be preached in all the world. One birthday is now over, it is but a small moment. Mom got me a tie and except for missing all of you, I could not be happier. 

If you can't read the quote, here it is:

"What is the best way to teach our children and grandchildren---light and truth?  What is the most important way to set our families , both immediate and extended, in order? Is it possible in spiritual matters our example speaks louder than our words?  Temple marriage, family prayer, scripture study, and family home evening are all vitally important. But there is another dimension---the dimension of service.  If we are willing to leave our loved ones for service in the mission field, we will bless them with a heritage that will teach and inspire them for generations to come."  Robert D. Hales, Ensign, May 2001.

In so many ways, I'm just trying to follow our ancestors' examples and the heritage they left us. Be it James Wright Shupe and Sarah responding to Brigham Young's call for 500 men to join the US Army and march to California in 1848 or John Melvin Dalton leaving wife and children twice to serve missions, the last time for 2 years in Ireland and Whales, their sacrifice was much greater than mine. Heck, I've got modern communications, phone and "Skype."  

I love you all, dad

Well, its my birthday today, October 14, 2008. Mom and I studied Shqip this morning and then went for a walk about town. Man with small fruit stand has just caught, with his bare hands, a pigeon. I think he's going to have a good meal tonight. 

I'm standing next to fountain in front of restaurant where we ate lunch. I had a ham pizza, its a safe bet. And so far I've had no stomach problems. Mom is doing well too.

Also I've attached picture of a small kids park which is near our apartment. Harry, Margaux and Paisley better get here soon so I can take them for a ride on the carousel.

Here is picture of Mom standing over small river which runs through town. Its called the Lana, that may be short for lavatory, because it smells pretty bad. 

We'll be meeting with our tutor later today and then teach a small english class for some students who want to go to the US but first must pass the TOEFL examination. Love to all, dad